No other plant equals the Christmas cactus for odd beauty or for the number of questions from frustrated owners about its care and culture.
Stand beside a cactus exhibit at a flower show and listen. Every other question concerns this pink-flowered tropical cactus from Brazil.
“Why doesn’t it bloom?”
Read How To Make Your Christmas Cactus Bloom Here…
“It flowered last year but not this year. Why?”
“How much water should I give it?”
“It rots at the base. Why?”
Question after question about Schlumbergera bridgesii (formerly Zyyocactus truncatus). And with good reason.
The Christmas cactus is confusing.
Even botanists don’t always agree, except on where it originates — Brazil.
There it is an air plant, growing on trees. Here, in the north, it has become a pot plant capable of a lively existence in the home or greenhouse.
Prized For Its Flowers
Its pendent, fuchsia-like flowers, brilliant cerise pink with gold stamens against a background of odd, crablike jointed deep green foliage is as exotic as its orchid neighbors in the tropical forests of Brazil.
It blooms for about two months at a time of year when good flowering plants are at a premium. As soon as the first flowers fade, more open. Mature plants can produce hundreds of flowers.
Its life span is measured in decades. I know of two that are over 20 years old, and have heard of one that is 32. This is not even close to the record.
Being tropical jungle plants, they need more moisture and shade than most other cacti. But the term “more moisture” is relative.
Planting and Soil
The soil should be moist but not too much so. Be sure there are broken clay pot pieces, pebbles or charcoal at the bottom of the pot for drainage; and never set the plant in a saucer of water.
Too much water causes the roots to rot. Let the soil dry out occasionally well down into the pot to prevent the soil from going sour.
The soil itself should be a little richer than that used for other cacti, but since the plant likes a slightly acid soil, avoid lime or bone meal.
A mixture of two parts good garden soil, one part coarse builder’s sand and one part peat moss is excellent. Use a pot not much larger than the diameter of the plant (a two-inch plant in a three-inch pot). Put in a handful of soil. Set in the plant, spreading the roots.
Now fill the pot to within a half-inch of the rim and press the soil down firmly with the fingers.
East Or West For Lighting
Place the plant in a bright place away from direct noonday sun and drafts. Try to make this spot almost permanent, as the Christmas cactus does not like to be moved about.
Choose an east or west window as the best location for the plant. A south window with some shading is next best.
The number of questions asked about Christmas cactus is more amazing considering that the plant thrives on neglect. Weeks without water won’t, harm it. In fact, too much care is dangerous to the plant.
Late spring is the best time for repotting, should that be needed. Transfer the plant into a pot that is one size larger than what it is in now. Then set it in the shade outdoors for the summer.
New leaf growth starts in the spring. When it does you can start fertilizing it about every two weeks with a good liquid fertilizer, following directions on the package.
Tricking To Bloom
In early fall when nights start to get cool, bring the plant inside and give it a 30-day nap.
Place it in a cool, dim location and do not water it for about a month. Then gradually expose it to light and increase the water supply over what it had when it was outside.
Like chrysanthemums and poinsettias, the Christmas cactus is a short day plant. As the days get shorter its buds are formed.
This is when most of the mistakes are made that delay its blooming or stop it altogether.
Strong artificial light on it at night will retard the bloom. If you must turn on the lights where the plant is, cover it with a double sheet of newspaper.
Watering at this time, when the buds are formed, is decreased. If the plant receives no artificial light from sundown to sunup, it will justify its name by blooming approximately at Christmas.
Can Be Grafted
The plant is tough and adaptable. It can be grown on its own roots, or those who are technically inclined can graft it on pereskia or opuntia and make standards out of it.
Careless handling sometimes causes the crablike joints to break. Lay the pieces aside in a dry shady spot until the raw ends harden into a callus. Then plant them in soil or sand. There is little danger of the cuttings starting to rot.
The pagoda-like flowers will brighten up the dull winter months as a special reward for the small care the plant requires.
Q & A on Christmas Cactus
Is Christmas Cactus a Succulent?
The Christmas cactus is not a succulent but an epiphyllum type cactus.
The term “succulent” is used rather loosely in horticulture to refer to plants that are thick and juicy.
In its broadest sense it covers both cacti and all other thick, fleshy or juicy plants.
In a somewhat narrower sense it covers these latter plants and also the “leafy” type cacti; in a still narrower sense it excludes cacti altogether. Zygocactus truncactus would be a “succulent” under the first two definitions, but not under the third.
Rotting Leaves – What Causes It?
The most important disease causing problem for Christmas cactus is caused by fungus – Fusarium oxysporum. Stem lesions are water soaked initially, and rapidly enlarge to reddish brown areas which appear sunken or mushy.
The fungus spores love this environment and it is easy to find the dusty yellow-brown covering of spores.
Splashing water moves these spores to uninfected areas of the plant or other plants in the propagation area resulting in a rapid spread of disease.
Christmas cactus growers monitor and watch for fungus problems as they can spread rapidly through stock bed areas. The key to control of Fusarium fungus disease on christmas cacti must begin clean stock. Keep cutting as dry as possible until they root.
What About Fungus Gnats?
Fungus gnats can at times also contribute to problems with Zygocactus (Christmas cactus) or Peperomia. This necrosis or rotting at the soil line is illustrated in picture.
Question: I have a large healthy looking Christmas cactus. Its flower buds fall off and only two or three remain to open fully. What can I do to prevent this? – JK, Naugatuck, Conn.
Answer: Ethylene gas seem to effect the buds of Christmas cactus. Also bud dropping of this plant is often due to overwatering, especially in the fall.
Chilling or exposure to cold drafts may be a second cause. Water your plant sparingly, and feed it with a little liquid fertilizer once a week while it continues to bloom.
Give your plant less water than usual from early October until buds show. That may solve the problem.
Question: I’ve had a Christmas cactus for years – it always grows nicely until about August. Then large branches rot at joints near the main plant and fall. Although I root these branches and start new plants, I’d rather they didn’t fall off. What can be done to prevent this?
Answer: At about the time you run into trouble with your Christmas cactus, its growth is soft and the buds are forming.
It is at this time that the plant must be treated like a cactus. Set it in a cool airy place and don’t give it any water for a month. Then start watering again, sparingly.
Such treatment ripens the soft growth and prevents it from decaying. It also helps to set the buds and seems to help prevent bud drop.
{ 0 comments… add one now }
You must log in to post a comment.