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One perennial which commands attention in both garden and border is the stately, majestic, multiflowered eremurus. When mature, it stands 4 to 12 feet high, depending on the species or variety, and bears a striking spike of blooms 2 to 3 feet in length.

Each spike attractively displays hundreds of perfect, starlike, bell-shaped flowers.

In appearance the spike resembles a fox’s tail – wide at the base and tapering cone-like, to a point. It never fails to impress even those who have grown the eremurus for years.

Besides the name foxtail lily this aristocratic giant-flowering plant is more commonly known by such names as giant asphodel, spire-lily, or desert candle: Unfortunately, its Latin name, Eremurus, has kept some amateur gardeners from investigating its desirability, and therefore, they have missed its pleasures.

A Lily For Hot and Cold Climates

Mistakenly, the eremurus has been thought of primarily as a warm climate perennial. The truth, however, is that it is adaptable to both heat and cold. It has come through the severest New England winters without a single loss.

Perhaps the fact that amateurs have known the eremurus only as desert candle or the fact that they knew its original habitat was the desert areas of India, Persia, And Central Asia, led them to believe it would not survive the winters of New England or regions of the same latitude.

Nothing could be further from the truth. One variety, E. himnlaieus, thrives at an altitude of 7,000 feet in the Himalayan range of maintains where temperatures drop considerably.

In addition to being a hardy perennial, the eremurus is an increasingly satisfying flower over the years. A clump of the white variety or of any of the shades of pink, salmon, or yellow is beautiful, striking, and outstanding. A flowering root requires about five years to develop from seed but, once it begins to bear, it multiplies and in a few years will increase to three or six spikes.

Because of the long time it takes to grow a flowering root, it is better for the amateur to purchase roots that will bloom the first year. The cost may be higher but the investment is negligible in terms of their increase and especially in terms of their satisfaction year after year.

Soil Preparation and Planting

The eremurus requires little attention once established but its success rests upon proper planting. September or early October is the best time to put roots into the ground in the New England area. This gives the roots time to become established before the ground freezes. I have seen, on occasion, them planted successfully as late as the end of November. In these cases I took the precaution to give them an extra heavy winter covering after the ground had frozen an inch or two.

The site chosen for planting should be one where the plants may be allowed to grow for years without disturbance. The soil should be well drained and open to full sunshine at all times.

Prepare the place of planting by digging a hole 2 feet deep and wide enough to accomodate the spreading root comfortably.

Fill the hole to a depth of 1 foot with a mixture of rotted manure and sandy loam to which a generous sprinkling of bonemeal has been added. Next, fill in with 4 to 6 inches of rich loam combined with clean, sharp sand. Then, mound the soil to fit the crown of the root and to permit its octopus-like roots to spread out.

The roots of the eremurus are quite brittle and care must be exercised at all times in handling. Lastly, cover the root with screened soil working it gently around the root system. Water may be added to settle the soil snugly. Cover with soil so that the crown will be 2 to 3 inches below the surface. It is important that a porous soil be provided to insure a soft root run for the brittle, fleshy root system.

When planting a number of eremurus, space them about 3 to 4 feet apart. If they are to be planted in rows, allow 4 feet between the rows.

Transplanting

Transplanting of eremurus should be done as seldom as possible. The fleshy roots are brittle and subject to injury. It is almost impossible to transplant them without some injury. However, if they do become overcrowded after five or ten years, they should be lifted, separated carefully, and replanted to an area where they may thrive again for years without disturbance.

The best time to transplant is September and early October. Transplanting in the spring is usually hazardous. I have done it on occasion because of a rearrangement in my garden plan but several of the spikes failed to develop.

Winter and Spring Protection

Winter care is relatively simple for these hardy perennials. Once the plants are established, a mulch of rotted manure or wood ashes serves both as winter protection and as a fertilizer. In areas where the plants are subject to attacks by slugs, they may be covered with coal ashes if wood ashes are not available.

I know some gardeners who apply no winter protection and find that they do not lose a plant. The first year, I think it preferable, as with many other perennials, to cover them with a somewhat heavy covering of peat, peatmoss, or evergreen brush.

In spring, protect the developing bud up to about early April in the New England area by either of two methods.

The first is to add peat at approximately weekly intervals – just enough to keep the bud covered lightly. The second is to cover the plant at night by inverting a basket, or box over it.

Some of my friends shield their plants by the simple device of two boards nailed together in a V-form which is set directly over the bud. Hay may also be used as a protective covering. I have used it from time to time and still do occasionally but it is subject to being blown away and if too much is put on or if a heavy freezing rain falls, I and that the weight tends to injure the foliage.

The flowering bud is quite well protected naturally. It lies in a protective fluid and is covered by the developing leaves which envelop it. As the plant grows the leaves open to the sunlight and tend to close around the bud at night. The covering of the bud is actually an added precaution against the quickly changing temperatures in New England.

The sun may shine brightly during the day warming the bud and suddenly a northeasterly wind bearing freezing temperatures may move across the area. If rain preceded the cold winds, the bud is subject to freezing and possible injury.

When the plants make their appearance in early spring, they show a light green crown which shortly opens into parallel-veined leaves resembling those of the yucca plant. The stalk grows at a rapid rate.

By the first of May the E. himalaieus, for instance, stands about two feet and by the end of the month it will have attained six feet. In general the stalk is strong enough so that it supports itself easily.

Length of Bloom

In Massachusetts, the blooming period extends from late May to early July. In warmer climates such as that enjoyed on the West Coast, the blooming period begins the latter half of April and continues to mid-June. The full blooming period may be enjoyed by planting both early and late varieties.

As cut flowers. As a cut flower eremurus is somewhat limited for the house because of its size, but for large rooms, churches, and banquet halls it holds its am with any other suited flower and is usually much more striking.

Insects and Pest

Insects and pests seldom bother eremuri. I have had bugs attack them occasionally but a quick spraying with Neem oil and soap checked them immediately. If slugs should attack them, use coal ashes as was stated earlier. Slugs have given me no trouble in my garden.

In conclusion, let me say if you have hesitated to plant the eremuri because they seemed unsuited to northern temperatures, go ahead and plant them with full confidence in their hardiness and success. They are easy to grow, require little attention and will give a type of pleasure not enjoyed from other flowers.

The only requirement is that they be planted correctly and carefully and disturbed as little as possible. Each spring I think you will look forward eagerly, as I do, to seeing the young giant make his appearance and grow in size and strength from day to day until hundreds of the loveliest, bell-shaped, starlike florets you have ever seen suddenly burst open. The eremurus is truly the aristocratic giant of the garden and border. Try it!