Showy Clematis Vines and Outdoor Decorating

Long a favorite, the showy blooms of clematis afford a striking accent to the summer garden, especially when used as a background for many varieties of lilies.

Versatile, generally pest-free and when once established, capable of surviving severe winters, clematis may be called truly spectacular. They are equally attractive with roses.

Secret To Success

The secret of success with clematis lies in a proper selection of varieties and in adherence to planting and cultural needs.

Not all varieties will grow equally well in a given area. Differences in soil composition, extremes in temperatures, improper fertilizers or watering, failure to mulch for the colder climates, planting too deep – these constitute most reasons for failures. A request to the nearest agricultural center will bring a variety list best suited to one’s area.

In general, clematis, like lilies, should have their feet in the shade and their heads in the sun. They are best suited for growing on trellises, fences, lamp posts, old tree stumps, stone walls, brick or frame walls of houses or garages, outdoor fireplaces, porch arbors – any place where they can be trained to climb on a trellis wire or other supports.

Adequate preparation of the soil bed where they are to live for many years is a prerequisite. Select a site where plants receive full sun at least six hours daily. Dig a hole two feet wide and two feet deep. Make sure of drainage by pouring a gallon or two of water in the excavation. If the water drains away within an hour, all is well.

The soil should be well-drained loam fortified with humus such as leaf mold or peat moss, a cupful of balanced commercial fertilizer to which a generous amount of sand is added, and an application of ground limestone (one quart) with about three cupfuls of bone meal. Mix well, water and allow soil to settle a few days.

For spring planting the bed can be prepared as soon as soil is workable. Spread out the roots in the planting hole and cover crown with no more than 1-1/2 to two inches of soil. Firm the vine in place and water.

If any stems are broken they should be removed. Use a starter string or small, slender stake for the shoots to cling to until enough growth has been made for the vine to reach its permanent support.

Prepare a mulch of three parts peat moss and one part dried commercial manure. This should be placed over the bed to a depth of four to six inches and well around it to keep the roots cool and moist, and in winter to help keep out frost.

Manure is not recommended in the bedding soil, for it has proved to encourage root-rot nematodes. As the vine becomes established, examine it periodically for stem-kinking which, if not straightened out, will shut off the food supply.

Shade may be provided by planting ground covers near the main stems. These can be myrtle, pachysandra, ivy or the like. When cold weather approaches, the vines will benefit from a generous hilling of soil and a covering of straw or leaves especially over newly planted ones.

Pruning Clematis

Pruning of clematis is a big subject. Remember that hybrids (the large, showy kinds) are as a rule not as rampant growing as the species; therefore little pruning is necessary and that only on well-established vines.

Removal of dead wood after buds are visible usually suffices, unless growth has produced a mass of tangled and bunched stems which crowd out flowers. Then, too, certain varieties will have top growth winter killed, in which case simply cut the vines back to live growth in spring, the same way hybrid tea roses are pruned.

If rabbits or mice are a problem a wire screen placed around the stems usually keeps them from nibbling the stems.

Related Articles Of Interest:

• Clematis Vines, Plants, Flowers – Questions Answers
• Clematis Hardy and Handsome Vine
• The Clematis Vine – A Summer Showy Flower Shower
• Clematis Plants – Pests and Diseases