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How to Select a Mower

Power lawn mowers may be divided into two general classifications, the reel type and the rotary blade. There are other types which are sometimes used for lawn mowing but, by definition, they are more properly called field mowers. For example, a sicklebar power mower may do a very fine job of lawn mowing but it is even more valuable as a field mower cutting down heavy brush.

Before looking at mowers take into consideration the area you wish to mow. How big a lawn are you going to keep, does it consist largely of open spaces or is it cut up with flower beds and shrubbery. Obviously, a lawn broken up with many small areas calls for a more flexible machine than one where all the mowing is in wide open spaces.

What, then, are the strong and the weak points of the various types? To begin with, the reel type has been on the market for a much longer time than the rotary and at one time was better known. No mower comes closer to delivering the perfectly mowed lawn than does this one… that is why you’ll find this type of mover on the gold course. It is a precision piece of equipment but it depends upon proper alignment and correct adjustment for perfect functioning. Hence, it should always receive the treatment and care accorded any other precise piece of mechanism.

rotary pupe push mower

The reel type mower is made in such a variety of models that there is almost certain to be one to fit any requirement from a small city lot up to the largest country estate. The large trimmer mower is often equipped with power driven wings (side units which fold up out of the way when not needed) thus giving it greatly increased cutting capacity on large areas. Then there are various friction or drag-driven reel type units in groups or “gangs” for mowing still larger areas.

The reel mowers, however, are limited in the height of grass they can handle. If a lawn gets too long it may have to be mowed with another type of mower first. However, except in rare circumstances, such situations seldom arise. The services of a fully·equipped lawn mower shop are required to grind and maintain the reel type power mower.

Reel-type mowing units are frequently offered as attachments to tractors and other power garden tools. Many of these are very well made, yet not entirely satisfactory when used in connection with extremely slow moving power units. It all depends upon just what your requirements are whether a particular attachment will please you or not. If your lawn contains many tight areas and corners it is possible that a garden tractor with a front mounted mower attachment might be too clumsy to suit you. You might be better served by not buying the attachment but by spending a little extra for a regular power mower. In this connection you should not overlook the joy of having a power mower which is always ready to go without the necessity of removing one attachment and replacing another before work can be started.

The other principal type of power lawn mower is the rotary. It is generally furnished as a push type or self-propelled in both smaller sizes and larger models. Because of its design the rotary is able to do certain things not generally expected of a power lawn mower. It is also the simplest of all power mowers mechanically.

Among their advantages rotary mowers have the ability to mow high grass and weeds-and reduce them to tiny bits which seldom require raking in addition to doing an acceptable job of mowing on shorter grasses. From the maintenance angle rotary mowers are simpler to care for. Almost anyone with a power grinding wheel or even a good file can keep the cutting edges reasonably sharp. In the case of service being required on the motor, however, the owner’s best bet still is the service shop of the i dealer from whom the machine was originally purchased.

In the small rotary mowers those that seem to give the greatest satisfaction are the simplest in construction. These are so light in weight that it takes almost no effort to push them about while the motor does the mowing. The self-propelled models require no pushing but lose a little of the maneuverability of the push type and, of course, involve a more complicated power transmission.

The Motor

Practically all motors on power mowers today will give you good service. This is true whether they be designated as 2-cycle or 4-cycle. Each has its particular boosters but the fact remains that they are all good. You should, however, understand that in 2-cycle motors the gasoline and lubricating oil are mixed together in careful proportions before pouring into the tank. In 4 cycle motors gasoline only is poured into the tank and the lubricating oil is kept up to proper level in the motor crankcase.

Aside from the motor in a reel type, the cutting unit is of the greatest importance. It is a precision unit and to maintain precise operation it Should be sturdily built and easily adjusted. The reel itself should be substantial and mounted in heavy duty bearings. The bedknife against which the blades turn should also be substantial and not susceptible to flexing or bending when the going gets tough.

The following suggestions apply regardless of the type or size power lawn mower you select. Be sure that cutting heights are easily adjustable and have a top range of not less than 1 1/2 to 2 inches. (Most people still cut their lawns too short, especially in dry weather, which encourages undesirable growths and bare spots.) Handlebars should also be readily adjusted to various height requirements.

Wheel or roller drives are largely a matter of taste or, sometimes, a soil condition. However, on very steep slopes wheel-driven machines do not side slip as much as roller driven ones.

Motors should be mounted on a stout deck with the oil filler plug in an accessible location. If too hard to get at one might become careless and burn out the motor. As far as possible, the spark plug and air intake housing should be located out of the path of the grass clippings and the exhaust should be directed well away from the face of the operator. Clutch and throttle controls should be convenient and responsive.

Many also have the problem of transporting their mower over a gravel drive. Unless the cutting unit can be disengaged from the motor serious damage may result. Make sure, also, that the machine will store well in your quarters.

A word on motors… the Neuton Lawn Mower uses a battery to power its way. With the “green” movement more and more people may look at mowers like the Neuton to do their lawn work.

After You Decide

At this point your mind has settled on the kind of mower you want. That being the case, go to the dealer who sells and services in his own shop the mower of your choice.

When the machine is finally yours make sure you don’t neglect its care. Machines when new are sometimes stiff and need at least a short period in which to break in. Give your machine a chance to limber up and get broke in… don’t expect full performance until it has had that chance. Clean your mower after use. Lubricate it regularly and as directed in the instruction book.

If you make your own adjustments, never set the bedknife so that it rubs against the blades of the reel. This is one of the commonest mistakes and quickly destroys the cutting efficiency of the best mower made. The reel and bedknife should just miss touching each other yet be close enough together to at least pinch a single thickness of newspaper placed at any point across the unit.

When repairs or adjustments are required that you do not feel qualified to make, remember you bought your machine from a dealer who thinks well enough of his products to stand back of them with full service. No one is better qualified to serve you and no one has a bigger interest in the proper functioning of your mower than this company. They can save you time and money.



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