Preparing Roses For A Northern Winter

The great variety of winter weather found in northern areas of the United States presents the rose growers here with a great problem - in fact, the hardest part of rose growing. Some years winter sets in following a very dry fall. Other times it comes with an abnormal amount of snow when the ground is only barely frozen. Then again, a winter season with little or no snow may have severely cold, below normal temperatures. Or we may often have a combination of any of these conditions.

Before covering roses for the winter, make sure the beds have plenty of moisture in them before the heavy freeze or before the time that covering gets under way usually about November 10, depending on conditions of the season. Do not spare the water, for it surely helps bring roses through the varied weather which is dealt to the northern areas. A good supply of mouse, mole and rabbit bait should be distributed in the beds to safeguard plants against damage by these pests.

Rose growers in northern areas have employed many methods of caring for roses through the winter. Some mound the plant with dirt, entirely covering it, and then use a light covering of hay or straw; others hill the plant with dirt up only four or five inches from the base, using a greater amount of hay or straw for covering. Some even build wooden housings to cover the plants after billing with dirt and covering with hay. Most of these practices have been used for many years. All have been used with success.

In using earth for mounding rose plants, many growers have had the problem of a considerable amount of mildew on the main stems. The mildew damages the stems and slows up the comeback for vigorous growth. The cause of the appearance of mildew is rather hard to explain. I believe the chief reason for the mildew is not removing the covering early enough the next spring. The covering should be removed not later than the first week of April - even earlier if possible, unless extremely subnormal weather conditions prevail. The rose grower must take each year’s weather in stride.

Leaves are another kind of covering and are rapidly being recognized as good. More and more rose growers in the twin cities area are using leaves and leaves alone for winter protection. It is true that it takes a great amount of leaves to give ample protection to the roses - more leaves usually, than the average rose grower has on his property. Perhaps your neighbors would give you the leaves from their yards. The park or street department of your city, would possibly furnish enough leaves for covering your roses. If you use leaves, do not be afraid to place them well around the plants, and to put plenty on top, also.

It will be necessary to use some material to hold the leaves in place. If desired, cover with building paper (tar paper). Old boards or building material, or a coarse grade of chicken fence wire are all rather inexpensive and will do this job adequately for many years. Even if some snow should fall before the roses are covered, go ahead and cover over the snow. In the spring when the leaves are removed, they are excellent material for a compost pile. Some growers prune their roses in the fall before putting them to bed. Others do not prune until spring, after new growth begins to develop.

For covering pillar or climbing roses, it is best to lay all canes on the ground and use any of the ways suggested for the bush roses. Removing climbers and pillar roses from their trellises or fences gives one an opportunity to repaint these supports when necessary.

Tree Roses

Roses are being grown more each year in northern areas. Some gardeners grow tree roses in large containers and move them inside for the winter. A method used by many tree rose growers is to loosen the dirt around three sides of the plant and gradually bend the entire tree over to the ground, pinning it down with stakes. Then use the same method as for climbers and bush roses.

by C Signs

Filed Under: Landscape
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