Philodendron For Baskets and Totems

It seems a miracle that Philodendron plants, born to adorn the forest floor or perch in the crotch of a tall tropical tree, can be uprooted and transported to the utterly different environment in our homes – and live to tell the tale. But among the philodendrons are some of our most durable decorators. The ubiquitous heart-leaved philodendron has been hidden on the dark shelf of a corner cupboard, dangled from a mantel into the heat of a fireplace, denied moisture or drowned in it, had its stems tucked in a half-inch of slimy, fetid water – and although it’s not exactly lush-looking, neither is it dead. Imagine, then, how beautiful it must be in the jungle, where its leaves and aerial roots breathe warm, moist air; its stems have tree trunks to climb on; and its foliage, in good light, can develop to full foot-long maturity.

Even more inspiring, think of the hundreds of other philodendron species with foliage of all sizes, shapes, textures, and exotic colorings. And think of the dozens of distinctive ways they can decorate the home. Choose one of the less usual small-leaved varieties to climb up and around a window. Train one on a totem or tree trunk in a planter, under artificial light; or set several where they can spill over the edge. Some make exotic hanging baskets, alone or combined with other plants. Some cling daintily to even the smoothest wall, creating a fascinating foliage and shadow pattern as they go. Use these plants to carry out any design principle – to achieve unity or balance, to blend and harmonize, to make an area seem smaller or larger.

The closer you can come to achieving favorable growing conditions, the more tropically luxuriant a philodendron will grow. Here’s what most varieties need: warmth, above-average humidity, average houseplant soil mix, good light but little sunlight, and constant moisture. Most of the creeping or vining types grow best and look best when they have a porous support like a totem of tree fern, cork, or sphagnum to sink their roots into.

Foliage keeps fresher when it is regularly washed free of dust or dirt, or simply dusted with crumpled tissue paper. Never apply oil – it clogs the leaf pores. Root systems are small; repot only when the roots grow out through the hole in the bottom of a pot, or are tightly matted around the soil ball knocked out of the pot. Soil kept too soggy will cause rot, kept too dry will brown and crisp leaf edges. If the cordlike aerial roots of some species look unsightly, cut back all but a few to a length that allows them to be tucked neatly into the support or the soil in the pot. For finest foliage, feed regularly, but not a full-strength solution. Propagate by rooting tip cuttings of small-stemmed climbers, cane cuttings from those with trunklike stems.

There are two general types of philodendron – those called “self-heading,” that grow rosette-fashion from a central crown and need no support; and the climbers and creepers that will hang down from a basket or pot, or grow largest and most lush climbing up a support. This list includes desirable and available climbing types.

Philodendron andreanum – black gold – Sharply pointed oval leaves black-green with a red satin sheen and well-marked creamy veins, starting small and building up to three feet long at maturity. It is best on bark or totem, most beautiful in highly humid air.

Philodendron ‘Angra Dos Reis’ – Looks like a self-heading species, but creeps. Elongated heart-shaped leaves look highly waxed, with prominent mid-vein.

Philodendron ‘Burgundy’ – Slim, tapering leaves of shining dark wine-red, red stems.

Philodendron ‘Corsonianum’ – Slow-creeping hybrid with wide, coppery, puckered leaves trimmed with light-green veins, red-purple underneath.

Philodendron crassinervium – Creeper with slim, rounded leaves shaped like a turkey feather, rounded and raised midvein dotted with red.

Philodendron cruentum, ‘Redleaf’ – Climbing species with long leaves, the sunken veins green on top and deep red beneath.

Philodendron erubescens – Shield-shaped leaves nearly a foot long, green with a coppery sheen, and thinly edged with red; burgundy-lined underneath. It makes new roots with every new joint.

Philodendron ‘Florida’ – Slim-stemmed climber with leaves indented to make five points, rich green and creamy near the midvein, brick-brown underneath.

Philodendron gloriosum – Slim-stemmed creeper with crisp, lustrous heart-shaped leaves pewter over green, veins pinkish and margins red.

Philodendron guttiferum – Leisurely climber with durable long-oval, pointed dark-green leaves on stocky stems.

Philodendron hastatum – Old time florists’ favorite totem climber with slim, shield-shaped leaves and raised veins. The form variegatum is a fortunate sport with bold, irregular splashes of butter-cream and ivory-white.

Philodendron ilsemanni – Pointed oval leaves with reverse variegation – basically creamy with irregular green spots.

Philodendron imbe – Paper-crisp, slender, shield leaves with outstanding veins, lined with wine beneath; called the “most climbing” species.

Philodendron imbe x hastatum – Unnamed hybrid with large, heavy, arrow-shaped leaves; may climb or not.

Philodendron laciniatum – Climbing type with five-pointed, fiddle-shaped leaves and raised, apple-green pencil markings in the center.

Philodendron mamei – Slow climber or creeper with large, heavily veined leaves grayish green touched with shining silver in spots. ‘

Philodendron ‘Mandianum’ – Hybrid of two good climbers, with glossy, long-arrow leaves dark burgundy with a metallic shimmer.

Philodendron micans – Like a royal form of scandens, with thin heart-shaped leaves dark coppery-green and lustrous as finest satin.

Philodendron panduraeforme – Large leaves of varied fiddle shapes, olive green. One of the most durable for difficult growing conditions.

Philodendron pittieri – Totem-climber with heavy, glossy, heart-shaped leaves lighterthan-usual green. One of the more tolerant types.

Philodendron radiatum (dubium) – Royal climber with large, leathery leaves cut into sharp points, and cut farther toward the midvein as the plant matures.

Philodendron ‘Rubrum’ – Climber with large heart-shaped leaves deep-green overlaid with red, veins white tinged with copper.

Philodendron scandens (cordatum, oxycardium) – parlor ivy, heart-leaf philodendron – Best-known vine with glossy green leaves four inches long in youth, up to a foot or more with age and good culture. A variegated form is sometimes available. It will hang, trail, creep, or climb – but prefers the last.

Philodendron schottianum – Pointed arrow leaves finely crinkled by sharply sunken veins, can grow two feet long; stems short between the joints.

Philodendron selloum – Will grow like the self-heading types, a tree, or a hanging vine. Extra-large deep-green leaves are finely divided into points, then divided again.

Philodendron sodiroi – Large heart-shaped leaves in varying shades of green, mottled with slate gray and silver; young plants are vining or climbing, more upright when mature.

Philodendron squamiferum – anchor leaf, Malayan kris – Stem-twisting climber with large, rich green leaves with five lobes in three distinct shapes, like a double set of wings. Stout green stems covered with red bristles.

Philodendron trifoliatum – Substantial, deep-green leaves with three lobes, veins sharply depressed, on slender stems that root as they climb.

Philodendron verrucosum – Large, wavy, heart-shaped leaves like finest, shimmering, bronzy-green chamois; veins light green, edge trimmed with shamrock green. The underside is coppery or violet. Red leaf-stems are upholstered with fine green hair.

Family: Araceae

Related Articles Of Interest:

• Ficus For Baskets
• Ceropegia
• Begonia Plants For Hanging Baskets
• Peperomia Plants – Baskets or Pots