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Lawn and Garden Task for April in the West

Out West gardening enthusiasm reaches new heights in April, when the thermometer begins to roll upwards and the days become sunnier and longer. Granted, that in the higher altitudes there will still be a few frosty mornings and the ground may be cold and wet, but for many Westerners spring has really arrived.

This year promises to be one of the best garden seasons yet. There are always new annuals and perennials to entice gardeners and, of course, there are some outstanding new roses. For the gadget-minded man of the house, there are many new improved tools that will make gardening easier than ever before.

For a few dollars worth of seed you can assure a garden full of color for the summer and fall months. Here’s a list of about thirty annuals which perform well in the West:

calendula orange closeup

zinnia, marigold, petunia, sweet pea, nasturtium, aster, snapdragon, morning-glory, larkspur, calendula, poppy, portulaca, dahlia, alyssum, cosmos, bachelors-button, phlox, stock, bells of Ireland, cockscomb, Virginian stock, wild flowers, godetia, ageratum, balsam, mixed gourds, clarkia, gypsophila, nemesia and linaria.

Gardeners have always enjoyed growing plants from seed. In doing this, they can fill their gardens with color at little cost. Another advantage in growing plants from seed is that there is no need for transplanting when seeds are sown where they are to flower.

Buying bedding plants, however, has the advantage of earlier bloom, but has also the disadvantages of higher cost and limited number of varieties and pure strains available.

The Window Box

Choose for your window box some annuals with a dwarf or drooping habit. Balcony-type petunias are excellent, as are tall nasturtiums, giant morning glories, ageratum, calliopsis (coreopsis), annual pinks, lobelia, phlox and zinnias. These annuals require at least six hours of sun each day.

Lawn Weeds Begin

The war against crabgrass begins this month, when the tell tale leaves are just beginning to develop. They’re longer, wider and chunkier than those of other grasses. Apply a chemical crabgrass killer now, before the crabgrass becomes coarse, stemmy and hard to control. The material can be applied with a fertilizer spreader.

Hose Alert

Be on the alert with the hose. April may be a dry month or it may have a few light rains. But unless there are some heavy rains, it will be necessary to use the hose regularly, especially around newly set trees and shrubs. One of the first signs of a drying topsoil is the wilting of chrysanthernum tips. New roses that were planted bare root in January or February and have few roots as yet should not be allowed to dry out. Strong winds, especially northerly ones, can dry the soil rapidly. When these winds prevail, watch new bedding plants closely since they have shallow roots and will wilt quickly.

Watch for the Ants - Start Control Measures

ants farming aphids

Busy little ants have had columns devoted to them by well-meaning writers who are not gardeners. However, ants are responsible for much more injury to vegetable and flower gardens than is generally realized. They often injure roots that are near their nests. They also protect huge colonies of aphids and carry them from plant to plant. It is these newly established colonies of aphids that frequently cause the most damage. To control ants treat the infested area with a product like Ortho Fire Strike. This material will also discourage future infestations.

Begin Building Your Lawn

You can start a lawn as successfully in April or May as in March if the weather is favorable. If you keep the soil moist, springs warmth will only speed growth of the grass. When aphids first appear in your garden, load up the sprayer with a malathion spray. If aphids are permitted to multiply, they will ruin new growth. Every two weeks is not too often to use this spray material, if you want to keep your plants clean. If you suspect that thrips are infesting your gladiolus or other plants, spray them as well. Though the thrips are only just barely visible, their damage is easy to spot: they scrape the surfaces of leaves, stems and flowers, often making silvery streaks.

Clematis grows best in partial shade where it is cool. When protected from the hot afternoon sun, the color of the blooms is stronger. It is especially important to keep the lower stems and root systems cool and moist.

One enterprising gardener in Washington follows the English system of growing clematis. He sets two vines of different colors at the base of a flowering peach tree, letting the vines twine up the main trunk and spill out over the branches at the top. The head of the flowering peach gives shade to the “feet” of the vine and also allows the blooms to show at their best high up on the top of the tree.

Pinch back these annuals and perennials this month: young chrysanthemums; dahlias which are 6 inches high; zinnias (take off the first flower bud); and pansies which are getting straggly.

Thin out seedlings as soon as they come up, eliminating the inferior plants and leaving those which have the best chance of survival. Each seedling should have room to grow without tangling roots with its neighbors.

Question of the Month

Question: When I lived in the Midwest, I found it comparatively easy to manage a perennial border. Now that I’m living in Southern California, I find it a constant chore. Can you offer short cuts?

Answer: The hot weather does slow down the growth of perennials. Plant materials that are native to South Africa, the Mediterranean area, Mexico, New Zealand and Australia are also well adapted to the climate of Southern California and therefore worth growing in your garden. Check your nurseryman for the availability of these plants. A few other tips to keep in mind are:

  • regular renovation of the perennial beds every two or three years
  • an abundant supply of water through the summer - drip irrigation is excellent
  • a mulch during the hot weather months
  • consistent control of pests and diseases.


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