Growing Gloxinia Tubers

Tubers may be started into growth at any time but it is best to start them before April. The method most often used is to cover the bottom of a tray, box or seed flat with a 2-inch depth of equal parts ground peatmoss and sand, well-mixed. Nestle the tubers in this so that the tops just miss being covered. From your hand, flick tepid water over the tray – just enough to dampen the exposed top of the tubers and the surface of the starting medium. You may need to do this every day, perhaps not that often. Keep the medium just moist, not wet, and no tuber rot will result.

Place the tray in good light, never in direct sunlight, in a temperature not lower than 60° and not much above 70°. This higher temperature will encourage tubers to show leaves in short order. Since gloxinia foliage should never he moistened, stop the overhead sprinkling as soon as the leaves begin to appear. Thereafter, gently pour small amounts of water around each tuber.

For a long blooming season plan to start a few tubers every two weeks. If any of the tubers are already showing little mouse ears of leaves when they reach you, start these off first and hold the really dormant ones for a later time.

When growth is up an inch or two it is time for permanent potting. Lift the tubers from the starting medium, keeping as much of the medium on the young roots as possible and transfer them into 5-inch pots. Choose a pot 3½ to 4 inches since gloxinia leaves are heavy and need a sturdy support, perhaps the most satisfactory way to root them in water is to fill a glass bowl almost to the brim, floating a covering of melted paraffin on the surface in which holes are made with a heated ice-pick so that each leaf stem can reach through these into the water. Place the bowl in good indirect light. When the roots are a couple of inches long the paraffin can easily be broken and the leaves potted in 3-inch pots.

If the weather is hot and dry the surest leaf-rooting method is to fill an individual pot for each leaf, using peatmoss and sand, mixed half and half. This medium must be only moist, not wet. Bury only the stem, or part of it, so the leaf stands upright and does not touch the medium. Set an inverted fruit jar over the leaf. Such separate little “greenhouses” will hold in the humidity so that the leaves remain fresh and crisp until a new tuber and plant has formed. Keep them in indirect light for direct sun will quickly cook them.

Gloxinia leaves may also be rooted like rex begonia leaves by making a little cut through the leaf with a razor just below each main division of the veins. Lay the leaf, top side up, flat on a tray of moist peat and sand mixture. Bury the stem; hold the back of the leaf in contact with the medium by placing small pebbles on the leaf.

More on Gloxinia care and growing at the below Links:

• The Modern Gloxinia
• Germinating Time – Temperature – Light Requirements – Feeding Plants
• Blooming Period
• Gloxinia Vegetative Propagation

• Gloxinia – Vegetative Propagation
• Gloxinia – Blooming Period
• The Modern Gloxinia
• Add Gloxinias for Indoor Color