Give Your Plants a Break Plant Them Right

The planting method may very well determine the future of your plant. There is a “right way” of doing it.

All gardening starts with plants. It is extremely important that it be done right because the entire life of the plant may depend on this single operation. Some plants complete their life in one season… annuals and vegetables are examples and new soil can be prepared for them every year. On the other hand, lawns, trees, shrubs, roses and perennials are left in the same place for many years. The initial planting in this case is extremely important as it is impossible to materially change the soil beneath a plant while it is growing. Here, then, is how you can get your plants oil to the start they deserve:

Lawn Grass

Adequate soil preparation is the foundation of a good lawn. Given that, grasses grow sturdily and withstand dry weather best. Nutrients can be added to existing lawns and the pH changed, but only before lawns are made can much be done to improve the soil’s physical condition. Don’t neglect whatever is needed to insure having well-drained earth, thoroughly granulated and containing generous amounts of decayed organic matter.

The deeper the topsoil, the better, but turf thrives on less than most garden crops… 6 inches is enough. Thoroughly pulverize this and mix in a 3-inch layer of compost, peat moss or sedge peat. If a test shows a pH less than 6.5, mix in ground limestone. Rake into the upper 3 inches 3 pounds of 5-10-5 fertilizer (or equivalent of other analysis) to each 100 square feet.

Make the soil moderately compact by treading or rolling when it is dry enough not to stick to shoes or tools. Rake the surface very fine and even. Choose a calm day and distribute the seed evenly. Rake it in lightly and roll or, if area is small, firm with tamper or back of spade.

Annuals

Annuals need a good start. (As the term is used here it includes vegetables as well as flowers that live only one season.) They have only a few weeks to grow and mature. If they don’t make it they are failures. There is no second season for them to retrieve a poor beginning. Annuals are set out as started plants like young perennials or are sown outdoors either in seed beds or where they are to remain for flowering.

Prepare the soil 8 inches deep. Mix in organic matter (but avoid manure for root vegetables such as carrots, beets and parsnips, as it makes them coarse), limestone if the soil is too acid, and a 5-10-5 fertilizer (or other complete fertilizer in equivalent amounts) at 4 pounds for each 100 square feet.

Make the soil surface fine and sow thinly in drills or hills or broadcast. Sow hardy kinds as soon as the soil is workable, tender kinds after danger of frost has passed. Thin seedlings early to appropriate distances. Keep weeds pulled, surface soil shallowly cultivated.

Because annuals are cleared away each fall you have opportunity to spade and improve the soil over a period of two or three years. For this reason they are grand for new gardens.

Perennials

Perennials usually root deeply and remain undisturbed for several years. Prepare the earth to a depth of 12 inches. If the under soil is markedly poorer than the upper don’t bring it to the surface. Loosen it in situ and mix with it large amounts of organic matter, some bonemeal and, if too acid, ground limestone. If very clayey, the addition of gritty, sifted coal cinders (not fine ash) works wonders. Improve the topsoil similarly; also add a complete fertilizer. Except for bog plants good subsurface drainage is essential.

Never plant in little holes grubbed between established, closely growing perennials, trees and shrubs. When planting between other plants, improve the soil deeply and over as broad a space as practicable. For new plantings prepare the entire bed. Firm the soil somewhat and make holes large enough to accommodate roots without crowding. lf the plants have soil on their roots, as they should have if in leaf, retain this. Spread exposed roots in directions of natural growth, work good soil between them and make firm. Water leafy plants after planting, not dormant ones. Set perennials at depths best suited for the individual plant.

Roses

Roses are deep rooters, hungry feeders and likely to remain undisturbed ten to twenty years. You can’t prepare soil too well for them. Go down at least 18 inches. Work entire bed to this depth for new plantings, and as large a space as possible when replacing individual bushes in established beds. Under-drainage must be good; in waterlogged soil roots rot.

Roses prefer heavy earth but not raw, sticky impervious clay. Replace sandy soil with heavier loam or mix in clay. To all soils add large amounts of rotted organic matter cow manure if possible, otherwise compost, sedge peat or peat moss. Be especially generous with this 6 to 12 inches beneath surface. Mix through soil coarse bonemeal and, unless plenty of manure is added, a good application of organic fertilizer.

Let soil settle. Make holes to accommodate roots without crowding. Set bush with graft union at surface. Spread roots in directions they grow naturally and fill good soil between. Pack firmly.

Bare Root Trees and Shrubs

Bare root trees and shrubs. Dormant (leafless) trees and shrubs are often planted without soil on their roots. Prepare holes 2 feet deep, at least a foot wider all around than root spread. In poor soil make holes even wider. Excavate upper foot of soil, placing good topsoil separately from poorer under-soil. If second foot of soil is very bad remove and replace with good earth, otherwise fork it over and mix in a 5 or 6-inch layer of manure, compost or other decayed organic matter. Tread moderately firm.

Take care the roots do not dry. Trim broken ones with a sharp knife. Prune branches to compensate for loss of roots, to restore balance between roots and top… what we call root to shoot ratio.

Set plant about an inch deeper than it was previously, put good topsoil enriched with organic material and bonemeal (or a complete organic type fertilizer) between and around roots and pack firmly. Leave slight ridge of soil around outside of hole to make later watering easier. If necessary, secure tree to stake or with guy wires. Don’t water immediately after planting unless soil is definitely dry.

Balled Evergreens, Trees and Shrubs

Balled evergreens, trees and shrubs. Evergreens, except very tiny ones, and sometimes leaf-losing trees and shrubs, are transplanted with roots intact in a mass of earth in which they grew. Usually the soil ball is tightly wrapped in burlap or plastic… the specimen is “balled and burlapped.” When planting these prepare the soil to a depth of 2 feet. If several are to be set close together make ready the whole area, otherwise dig holes a foot or more wider all around than the sizes of the balls and prepare as for bare-rooted specimens.

Many evergreens prefer acid soil. Most have masses of fine roots and benefit from fine soil containing plenty of well decayed organic matter - peatmoss, sedge peat, leafmold or thoroughly decayed compost. Set evergreens no deeper, or very slightly deeper, than they previously were.

When the plant is in position remove burlap fit is closely woven; leave it if of light, open weave. Pack good soil firmly around ball. When hole is half filled, fill with water and let soak for an hour or two before adding remaining soil and firming. Finish with a low ridge of soil around hole and water thoroughly. Mulch surface with peatmoss or compost.

Six planting problems are shown in diagrams - lawns, annuals or vegetables, perennials (above), roses, bare-root trees and shrubs and balled and burlapped trees and shrubs (below). The lightest color indicates soil to be prepared. In the diagram, roots which are on the plant at planting time are shown in black. Future roots are shown in white. In the case of lawns and annuals, planted from seed, all roots will be new, consequently are shown white. Note saucer around hole for trees and shrubs to hold water. Also note mulch on balled plant.

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