Forcing Bulbs Make Spring Appear Early
Question: I want to know about forcing flower bulbs. Recently I inherited my grandmother’s bulb forcing vases, I remember her forcing bulbs of grape-hyacinths, daffodils, tulips, crocuses and amaryllis indoors every Christmas. Unfortunately, my grandmother never shared her bulb forcing secrets. I would like to get an early splash of spring. Can you provide some answers? Katy, South Bend, Indiana
Answer: Forcing bulbs is great fun! Why shouldn’t you be among those who, each winter, enjoy the pleasure of having a midwinter display of spring bulbs – one of the easiest and most certain of all types of gardening? A few bulbs, a cool cellar and a sunny window are the simple ingredients.
The procedure is simple and the expense moderate. In fact, as the season for outdoor bulb planting draws to a close, it is often possible to obtain the bulbs at a very considerable reduction in price. One should, however, beware of fake “bargains.” Only top-size, first-quality bulbs procured from a reliable source should be used for indoor bulb culture.
The list of bulbs suitable for growing indoors is long and varied. The beginner, however, will do well to start with only a half dozen or so different types – the sure-fire ones that he can scarcely fail with if a few simple directions are followed. These include daffodils, hyacinths, tulips, crocuses, grape-hyacinths (muscari) and snowdrops (galanthus).
Essential Conditions
The essential conditions for successful indoor bulb culture are few. First comes light. The more direct sunshine the better, but they can be grown where there are only a few hours of full sunshine, especially if these occur during the morning.
Next come moderate temperature and a fair degree of humidity. Bulbs indoors will not do their best in a constant temperature of 70° to 80°, and in air from which all the moisture has been extracted by a hot-air heating system. (Such conditions, of course, are also detrimental to most other plants grown indoors.) The undesirable effects of high temperature and low humidity can, however, be greatly offset by placing them at night where they will be cool (even down to 40°); by giving them all the direct fresh air possible when outdoor temperature is above freezing; by keeping water pans near them for evaporation; and by making sure that the soil in the containers in which they are growing is kept constantly moist. Placing the pots or bulb pans in saucers or in a shallow tray, and replenishing the water frequently enough to maintain it as nearly as possible to a depth of IA inch or so will usually keep them in good condition even in adverse surroundings.
Daffodils the Easiest to Force
Easiest of all bulbs for growing indoors are daffodils. Quickest to come into bloom are the tender “bunch-flowered” varieties – paper-white narcissus and its golden-yellow companion Soleil d’or, both of which may readily be grown in pebbles (or vermiculite and water) without a previous period of root growth. Much better results may be had, however, and much longer-lasting flowers, by growing them in soil as recommended for other bulbs.
Hyacinths, too, may be grown in plain water or pebbles, but here again you will get better results with soil. Don’t buy them in mixture if you want pleasant, soft colors.
When it comes to tulips one must be a bit careful about selecting varieties, many of the large-flowered varieties require a long period of pre-rooting and more exacting aftercare. Also they take up much more space and are inconveniently tall. Some catalogs specify which varieties are suitable for forcing, but even so the beginner will do well to choose from among the early, less-robust-growing kinds.
Forcing Potted Bulbs
The mechanics of growing bulbs indoors are not at all difficult. While flower pots will do as containers, bulb pans, which are merely shallow flower pots, are preferable because they are less easily tipped over.
Ordinary good garden soil will serve as the growing medium, quality bagged soil at the garden center works perfectly but I’ve seen better results with a compost made up of equal parts(by bulk) of garden loam, peatmoss and compost or well-rotted manure. (If soil is heavy, add enough sharp sand to cut it thoroughly.) For plant food, add for each peck of soil, one pint of a mixture of two parts dehydrated manure and one part bone-meal. Mix all ingredients thoroughly and screen to get an even, light compost. This is the ideal soil, but good results can be obtained with plain, rich garden loam and dried manure.
In potting, place about an inch of coarse screenings or of sphagnum moss in the bottom of the pot, and then fill a half to two-thirds full of the prepared soil. Place bulbs close together – one half to one inch apart – and deep enough to be barely covered when the pot is filled to one-half inch or so of the rim. Press soil firmly around them. Label each pot, using preferably narrow, 12-inch wood labels that will stick up above the soil to be filled in over the pots for the pre-rooting period. After planting, place pots in a pan or the sink and leave long enough to let water soak up from below until surface of soil is moist.
The potted bulbs are now ready to be moved to a trench a foot or so deep, to a coldframe, or to a really cold, dark cellar. Actual freezing is not- essential but the bulbs should have several weeks to make roots before top growth starts.
The regular method is to cover the bulb pans with 6 inches or more of soil, but w6 find it much more convenient to fill in around and over them with peatmoss or vermiculite, with a layer of compost (or soil) over this. Cover the pots (except the daffodils) with wire screening where there is any danger of injury from mice. With this method it is much easier to get them out when and as they are wanted.
Care after they are brought in is easy. Give a good watering and then keep only moderately moist until top growth starts. They will not require full sunlight until tops are several inches tall. After that the more direct sunshine the better. Placing the pots or bulb pans in saucers kept half full of water is much easier than watering from the top. Above all, avoid excessive heat. The cooler they can be grown – even down to 55° and 60° – the better.
When the flowers have faded, keep the soil moist and the foliage green as long as possible. When frost is out of the ground in spring, the bulbs, just as they are removed from their pots, can be set out in the garden for future bloom. They should of course be covered 5 or 6 inches deep. Thus you will both have eaten your cake, and still have it to enjoy in springs to come!
by G Rockland
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