Chrysanthemums and Insect Pests

Chrysanthemums have relatively few insect pests. In the spring and autumn when the weather is cool, aphis may be troublesome, but these are readily controlled by the use of a spray like Neem oil – all organic and natural. Red spider, which may appear in very dry spells, can be held in check by dusting thoroughly with sulphur.

At the approach of the blooming season, two additional serious pests may appear – leaf hoppers, which cause a yellow speckling of the leaves, and the tarnished plant bug, which pierces the flower buds and sticks out their juices. If the flower opens at all following such attacks, it is usually lopsided. Both of these pests are checked and almost completely controlled by applications Malathion dust or spray. The spotted cucumber beetle is also destroyed by this treatment.

The spray types of chrysanthemums usually are not disbudded. With a few varieties however, such a practice may prove desirable if the variety tends to produce several fairly large flowers very close together at the end of the stem. Somewhat larger flowers of more distinction and graceful character may be had by thinning out the buds.

Although the best plants are grown in full sun, we may sometimes want to have them on the shaded sides of buildings, under trees or in other shady spots. They may be flowered successfully in such places by first developing a sturdy plant in the open garden or nursery area and then transplanting it with a good ball of soil just as the buds are about to open. It may wilt slightly hut will recover completely in three or four days and bloom as well as if it had not been transplanted. By all means avoid pulling on it or lifting it to see if it is putting out new roots – to do so means nearly certain failure. Plants may also be dug and successfully transplanted into pots or porch boxes where continuous bloom may be had for weeks.

Chrysanthemums and Winter

After the period of bloom, has passed allow the plants to dry out naturally. Do not remove the tops from them until the following spring. In cold regions, the tops catch falling leaves and snow which serve as a natural mulch. This can be supplemented by other loose material such as cornstalks, evergreen boughs or coarse straw. Anything which packs down firmly such as tree leaves, lawn clippings or manure should not be used lest it smother the plants.

Another, plan is to place the clumps, complete with soil, in a coldframe, then pack loose litter around them. Where cold is less severe, or where water is likely to stand over the clumps, they may be moved to a drier spot or placed in an uncovered frame until spring. However, the clumps should never be allowed to dry out completely.

Plants which have overwintered successfully may be left in place to bloom during succeeding years. Usually such plants produce many shoots from soil level. These should be thinned out so no more than two or three remain. The remaining plants may be treated in the same manner as new plants, but they should be topped before they grow too tall. Often a fairly liberal dressing of nitrogenous fertilizer will help keep them soft and vigorous for a long time.

If the shoots that are removed have roots, they may be used just as if they were rooted cuttings. Often such slips resume growth more slowly than new cuttings, so culture should be regulated accordingly.

Choice of Varieties

The selection of varieties is a matter of personal choice. Local environmental conditions must be considered, there are many good varieties, and better suited to certain localities.

by E Kraus

Related Articles Of Interest:

• Pruning Chrysanthemums For Fullness and Future Flowers
• Hardy Chrysanthemum Plants For Autumn Color
• Wintering Chrysanthemums
• Hardy Chrysanthemums