A healthy palm can make an attractive statement is any landscape. Palms are not limited to the South Florida coastal areas but find themselves in many parts of the country used in the landscape. Caring for palms can be a little different than other plants, trees and shrubs. Check out these tips below for healthier and more attractive palms!

1- Pruning palms can reduce their vigor, transmit diseases, reduce their health nutritionally, affect cold hardiness and lower their tolerance to handle windstorms. So what pruning should be done? Remove only badly damaged or dead fronds, also remove flowers stalks and fruit. If the palm in the landscape has not been pruned or trimmed in a long time only remove from the tree as many green leaves or fronds as the plant will produce between the next pruning.

2- Prune above 9 to 3! What does that mean? Never remove palm leaves at an angle above the horizon (9:00 - 3:00) on the clock.

3 - When removing leaf bases cut them close to the trunk but not into the trunk. If a tree is diseased sterilize tools before cutting on another tree. Do not tear leaves of as this creates wounds and opens entry points for potential disease.

4 - Potassium deficiency has often in palms. When this happens palms have a tendency to “relocate” the potassium to the younger fronds by pulling from the older leaves. If you remove the yellow “deficient fronds” and do not correct the deficiency you’ll eventually end up with a palm having more yellow fronds. You must be patient, it can take anywhere from 6 month to 2 years for the problem to be remedied.

5 - Never allow anyone to climb a palm with climbing spikes.

6 - Always fertilize palms using a controlled release fertilizer with a 4-1-6 ratio. This translates into a 8-2-12 or 12-6-18 blend. Plus make sure the fertilizer includes 4% magnesium. Some recommend Epsom salt for palms but the results are short lived as Epsom salts are very water soluble.

7 - When fertilizing palms the most effective application method is to broadcast evenly under the entire canopy. Injecting the soil or banding is nowhere near as effective.

8 - When fertilizing be regular. Apply fertilizer every 3 months at a rate of 15 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

9 - Watch the turf fertilizer! When fertilizing turf or other ornamentals within 50 feet of palms do not sure the lawn care fertilizer, use the “palm special” in place of the landscape or lawn fertilizer.

10 - When it comes to fertilizer if you cannot use the right fertilizer on your palms your best choice is to not fertilize at all!

Believe it or not some plants show their true colors when they are pot bound and the brilliant colored Bougainvillea is just one of those special plants. Bougainvillea will put on their best flower show when they are a little tight in the pots.

Here’s a tip from Kellie Pilier who specializes in growing Bougainvilleas for the landscape trade.

When they are planted in the landscape leave the plant in the growing container. Here’s how to plant them this way.

Carefully cut out the whole bottom of the pot. If that seems too difficult then cut some large holes about the size of a grapefruit around the whole pot.

Some landscapers simply cut large slits down the side of the pot. The downside of this is that sometimes the roots can be pinched and become weak.

Taking the time to cut holes in the pot will require the most time and effort but it will give the best blooming results.

More Boug tips soon - but for now Here’s more on Bougainvillea Care

Many owners of houseplants look forward to the summer time to move their plants outdoors. They enjoy the fact of plants getting better air circulation outside, increased light, more humidity all followed by some good growth and believe it is much better than keeping plants inside all year.

Let me state right off - I am NOT a fan of moving house plants back and forth when the seasons change. The plant goes under lots of stresses. However, some people will move their plants despite my objections.

If you’re going to do it… follow a few guidelines!

• DO NOT move the plants outside too early. Houseplants acclimated to the 72 degree indoor temperatures can get some damage when night temperatures fall into the high 40’s and low 50 degree range.
• DO NOT put the plants in full sun right away. The plants need to move slowly into more light. Find a shady place for the plants to get filtered sun for a few days and SLOWLY give them more filtered light.
• NOT all plants can take full sun, but if the plant can handle or tolerate full sun slowly move the plant into move light over a 10 day to 2 week period of filtered sunlight.
• Once the plant is in high light or full sun, watch the leaves. If the leaves start fading, burn or bleach out, reduce the light by moving the plant back into filtered sun. Give the plant another week in filtered light, then try moving it into more light.

The same process works in reverse when moving houseplants back inside for winter. Move them SLOWLY into reduced light. Good Luck!

Recently a subscriber at plant-care.com asked the question about Ficus tree care and send along a picture of a condition called “gall.” In our eBook on Ficus Tree Care we cover top to bottom on caring for your Ficus - however, Ficus gall is seen by so few it is not covered in much detail.

Check out our Ficus Care Guide

Here’s want they wanted to know about this Ficus condition:

• What causes gall on Ficus Trees?
• Is it detrimental to the tree?

Their first thought… the gall would not harm the plant for quite a number of years! Were they correct? What are your thoughts?

Before we answer the Ficus Gall question - what exactly does it look like?

You can see the “tannish-brown mass” stuck to the trunk of the Ficus tree. That is what we call a “Gall”

What causes gall on Ficus Trees?

For my experience Gall comes from a fungal or bacterial infection. More than anything
the gall looks “ugly.”

Here’s another picture of Ficus gall.

Now to the question - Is is detrimental to the Ficus tree?

For my experience, I have not noticed any “ill effects” from gall.

In the first image I’m not sure if there is much you can do. However, if you do
decide to “cut it out” Make sure you disinfect the clippers before and after surgery!

On small plants I would just cut the Gall out.

The bottom 2 images are from the Fess Parker Double Tree in Santa Barbara where I attended a conference a few years ago. They had a large Ficus with a gall the size of a softball in the lobby. It made for great conversation over a 45 minutes time span.

When I went back the following year the Ficus trees were still doing very well in spite of the gall as big as a softball on one of the trees.

Need help with your Ficus Care? Check out the Check out the Care Guide.

People get nervous when the daily news hammers about a shaky financial environment. Do not be fooled. People are still buying homes, investing money into their property to improve the property value.