• Tweet
• 

• Tweet
• 

BEDDING and BEDDING PLANTS – Bedding in garden language is a term used to denote the massing of plants for showy flower or foliage effects. It is not of such importance in the garden picture of the present time as it has been in years gone by. The style does not fit in so well with the prevailing informal plantings and, while very showy, it is the most expensive form of outdoor floral decoration. Many of the plants best suited to bedding are tender and their period of effectiveness comparatively short. However, there are certain formal areas in parks, and in connection with certain types of architecture, where it is very fitting, and, if well carried out, worthy of commendation. There are four main divisions – spring bedding, summer bedding, subtropical bedding, and carpet bedding.

SPRING BEDDING – This style gives showy floral effects early in the season, and features such hardy bulbs in variety as crocus, hyacinth, narcissus, and tulips of both the early and late-flowering groups. Other plants used in connection with these are aubrietia, alyssum, arabis, bellis, myosotis, primulas of the polyanthus type, and pansies. One simple but effective combination is to carpet a bed of yellow tulips with forget-me-notes. As soon as the display is over these spring plants are usually removed and replaced with others which have been brought along under glass for summer display. Where bulbs alone are used they may be planted over with annuals, either transplanted or sown in place.

SUMMER BEDDING – Plants for summer display are set out as soon as danger from frost is past. This group comprises tender perennials propagated from cuttings, and perennials or annuals raised from seed sown early in the year indoors or in hotbeds. Among the tender perennials that give a good floral display and that are usually grown from cuttings are the so-called geraniums (actually pelargoniums) in variety, heliotrope, lantana, cuphea, and fuchsia, the last named for shady places.

Plants raised from seed include such kinds as ageratum (in both compact and spreading forms), varieties of Begonia semperflorens, California poppy (Eschscholzia), dahlias of the Coltness and other dwarf strains, annual gaillardias, lobularia (better known as sweet alyssum), Japanese pinks, Drummond phlox, bedding petunias, sanvitalia, varieties of Tagetes erecta and Tagetes patula, torenia, garden verbenas and Verbena venosa, which is sometimes hardy but succeeds best if handled as an annual.

For foliage effects named varieties of coleus grown from cuttings are colorful in sunny situations. Good gray-leaved plants, popularly known as Dusty Millers, are Centaurea cineraria, and Centaurea gymnocarpa; and another gray-leaved plant is Senecio leucostachys, all usually raised from seed sown early in the year. Forms of Chrysanthemum parthenium (commonly called Golden Feather or Feverfew) are attractive with their golden leaves, often finely cut.

SUBTROPICAL BEDDING – This term is applied to the arrangement of tropical plants in beds or groups outdoors for the summer months. Bold and luxuriant effects may be obtained for a short season, and for best results sheltered positions should be selected. Certain more or tless permanent occupants of the conservatory or greenhouse may be given a turn outdoors for the summer, such as tree ferns, palms, crotons, dracaenas, abutilons, acalyphas, cycads, and pittosporum. These are best plunged in the garden without being removed from their pots or tubs ; thus they are easily returned under glass on the approach of cold weather. Certain kinds are easily and quickly grown from seed. Amongst these are amaranthus, Albizzia lophantha, Eucalyptus globulus, Grevillea robusta, melianthus, Nicotiana sylvestris, ricinus, and various species of solanum, such as Solanum marginatum, Solanum aculeatissimum, Solanum sisymbrifolium, and Solanum warscewiczi. Cannas fit in very well with this group, giving strong flower and foliage effects. Good grasses are the various forms of pennisetum and miscanthus.

CARPET BEDDING – This style has almost disappeared from the home garden as far as the elaborate, geometrical layout of beds and intricate design of the plant arrangements, featuring coats-of-arms and similar picture work are concerned. Examples are still to be seen in parks and other public places, especially as welcoming tributes to organization conventions or other large gatherings. While a most expensive and unnatural style, it calls for a high degree of technical skill in design, selection of plant material and continuous attention in the form of pinching to keep the pattern well defined. The color effects in this style of planting are obtained from foliage rather than from flowers. Alternanthera, coleus, iresine, santolina, and dwarf forms of feverfew are good examples. Antennaria dioica and Herniaria glabra are useful edgers, as are also such succulents as Sedum acre, Sedum lydium, Sedum hispanicum, Aptenia cordifolia variegata, Senecio sueculentus and various echeverias and sempervivums.

An outstanding example of carpet bedding is the floral clock in the public gardens in Edinburgh, Scotland.

THE CARE OF BEDS

SOIL PREPARATION -To obtain the best results from bedding plants one must give the preparation of the soil adequate attention. The effort expended in deep cultivation will be well repaid, as it is the best insurance against drought. This means providing good friable soil to a depth of at least 12 to 18 in., and for most plants it should be well enriched with real old manure or leafmold. Succulents, and such flowering plants as geraniums and nasturtiums, do best in a rather lean (sandy) mixture.

Good drainage is essential, and if the subsoil is heavy and retentive it can be greatly improved by digging in some sand, gravel, or coal ashes. If on the other hand it is of a leachy character, a 6 in. layer of old sod or half-rotted leaves buried about 18 in. deep will offset this poor condition. Beds that are vacant over winter will be improved by double digging (which see) in the fall ; at this time manure should be worked in and the surface left rough until planting time. The action of frost renders it more friable.

PLANTING – Perhaps the first planting will be done in early spring, using such things as pansies, daisies and forget-me-nots that have been wintered in frames. Later on these would be replaced by more tender plants for summer display that have been brought along under glass and held until danger from frost is safely past. It is well that all such plants be somewhat “hardened off” before planting by giving them increasing ventilation. If cloudy or showery weather threatens about planting time, try to make the most of such favorable conditions for moving the plants.

As a rule it is helpful to first lay out the plants in position, then make any necessary rearrangements, and finally btgin to plant, working from the center of the area to the edges. In most cases the planting shows to best advantage when the center of the bed is somewhat raised.